You have seen our monthly Seasoned Supper Club, and may be wondering what exactly IS a supper club. Read on to learn more about this distinctly midwestern tradition.
What are supper clubs?
From Wikipedia “A supper club is a traditional dining establishment that also functions as a social club. The term may describe different establishments depending on the region, but in general, supper clubs tend to present themselves as having a high-class image, even if the price is affordable to all. A newer usage of the term supper club has emerged referring to underground restaurants.”
These days Supper clubs are also known as home bistros, guerrilla diners, secret restaurants, paladares, puertas cerradas, pop-up restaurants, guestaurants, speakeasies, and anti-restaurants.
How did they start?
Many Wisconsin supper clubs claim fame as Prohibition roadhouses where gangsters stopped while traveling the state transporting Canadian-label contraband. After Prohibition was repealed in 1933, liquor licenses were first granted to establishments outside city limits that served food, thus giving birth to the supper club. A supper club in the olden days meant linen table service, liquors, entertainment, and dancing — a destination for a night out.
The first American Supper Club was established in Beverly Hills, California, by Milwaukee native Lawrence Frank. His menu included prime rib, mashed potatoes, creamed corn, sweet peas, and Yorkshire pudding, which became staples in the established supper club menu. Frank also introduced the “doggie bag” to the dining-out culture.
Supper clubs were typically based on themes and geared towards tourists and servicemen. Exotic, ethnic, and nautical themes were popular in Wisconsin. Buildings were designed to stand out and attract attention. Supper clubs became a popular dining-out option and thrived even during periods of rationing. Many were operated in conjunction with resorts, or were located in proximity to vacation areas and along popular highways.
Iconic Supper Clubs included Marty’s Showboat Supper Club and The Gobbler Motel and Supper Club where the brochure claimed “The Gobbler Supper Club, the only one of its kind in all the world, was conceived to enhance the role of Tom Turkey as the all-American delicacy. The building’s rotunda design permits dramatic use of natural lava stone to simulate ruffled turkey feathers and windows form the ‘eyes of the Gobbler.'”
For the most part, gone are the days when a supper club meant an entire night out: a lounge with high-backed booths, highballs at low-ball prices, a piano bar, an orchestra, and a dance floor. It’s still possible, however, to listen to jazz piano or fox trot to Sinatra at some of Wisconsin’s ritzier supper clubs. And the one thing that’s never gone out of style, of course, is simply prepared great food.
What makes a supper club a supper club?
Unlike big-city restaurants, supper clubs are destinations, where patrons head for an entire evening rather than as a prelude to other entertainment. Generous portions justify dining as the main event.
The mood is casual. While some patrons may dress up for special occasions, clothing runs the gamut from jeans and shorts to jackets and ties. The relaxed atmosphere puts families – even those with young children – at ease.
Another hallmark is a relish tray, which, in its simplest form, has carrots and celery sticks, radishes, olives, and pickled peppers. Then there’s cheddar cheese spread, that brilliant gold mixture that helped define Wisconsin as the Dairy State. Served with crackers in various flavors and forms, scooped onto an appetizer plate, or served in a small crock, it smooths the way for the rest of the feast.
Probably the most definitive feature is a simple menu. This is not a place to find delicate little entrees with edible flowers or citrus sauces. Top billing goes to thick, juicy steaks and prime rib, though on Fridays you’ll inevitably find a fish fry. Fried shrimp, barbecued ribs, pork, and lamb chops typically round out the menu.
While the definition is broad, there are three things everyone seems to agree that a supper club has.
Ambiance
When you step into a traditional supper club, prepare to travel back in time to the ‘60s. Expect dark, moody lighting and wood paneling. Sink into plush furniture—maybe even a velvet semi-circle booth—channel your inner Don Draper, and enjoy.
Drinks
Every good supper club evening starts with a drink and a toast. For the classic supper club tipple, order a brandy Old Fashioned—Wisconsin’s unofficial state drink.
Relish Trays
This supper club staple is a must; every respectable establishment starts off with a relish tray. It’s like an appetizer to your appetizer. While each relish tray is different, expect to have a creamy cheese spread accompanied by assorted crackers and fresh or pickled vegetables.
Come enjoy our take on this Wisconsin tradition.